Final Project Research - Costume and Headpiece

'Exploring fashion runways, film, photography, music imagery and other media sources'

Louis XIV - Masquerade Balls.

The final project i decided to chose the 'Louis XIV Masquerade Balls', however, used 21st century inspiration to create a modern twist to the final look. The reason why i chose this theme is because i like the artistic influence and expression that it has. From researching through the theme i was able to find part of the theme to focus my design on. Baroque was a main influence in this era for the artistic style used. Many artists were around this era using exaggerated motions, clear details, swirling spirals in gold and black as the main colors.

Main inspiration throughout this era was the masquerade balls, through researching the era masquerade dresses were at the height of fashion. Flowers were a main thing in the design for the dresses and a lot of glitter and exaggerated masks. I chose to use flowers from the masquerade theme and add it into my design. The design of the dress was in baroque style with a huge 6 layered tiered dress and black baroque corset. As the waists were tightly constricted by corsets which provided contrasts to the wide skirts in this period, it was quite obvious that my design was to incorporate the corset.

Alexander McQueen SS13 Paris Fashion Week

The recent Alexander McQueen collection was intensely detailed, with a honeycomb inspired pattern and design. The Spring-Summer 2013 under the reign of Sarah Burton centered around the idea of the bee hive, and the concept was the driving force behind structural and textural details with mesh. The theme is baroque and bee hive inspiration. The designs captured the cage like structured effect that is also seen in 18th century layered dresses. There were references to the curvature of the womanly figure with heavy bone structure into the bodice, dress and headpieces made. Also in the shape of the honeycomb box structure.

Boning inside the dress adds structure. I chose a 6 paneled corset to add to my dress design as i took inspiration from this collection.

Dolce and Gabbanna AW12 Romantasim Catwalk Show

Dolce and Gabbanna were experimenting in new cuts and decorations: golden embroideries that recall Baroque mirrors and frames or embroideries made of small points inspired by dining room tapestries; prints of cherubs and angels that appear to have come out of a painting. The research involved 17th and 18th century Sicilian baroque style.

This baroque style inspired me to create my bodice in the same black and gold pattern. Taking inspiration from the catwalks has allowed me to come up with different elements of my dress to complete the final piece. Even though the designer duo D&G had no full layered skirts in there designs and clothing it was apparent i could use the elements in my own work to still create a baroque costume.

The Dress:

The dress i decided to buy a 6 tier wedding underskirt in order to adapt and make it my own to tie in with the theme. When i bought the dress it was pure white. To save on money i decided to give it an old rustic effect and tea stain the dress. i tea stained it twice and left it to dry. When it dried it gave a light brown mottle effect which i thought added age and effect from that era.

After tea staining the dress i decided to make the first tier look older. i added black and gold metallic paint to give that old tarnished gold effect which is from the baroque era on furniture. Then i decided to add a white gold trim around two of the tiers to add a different texture and added something to the dress. I added small pink flowers to tie in with the headpiece and i also added a black ruffled trim around the bottom half for more decoration.

Bodice construction:

My bodice piece. Hand crafted by myself adding gold glitter detail to alternating panels of the bodice. Inspiration from the SS13 Alexander McQueen fashion show.

- Structured bodice

- Baroque Theme

- Gold and Black

Finished bodice.

Headpiece:

For the headpiece i used the pastel flowers worn by Marie Antoniette in the Louis XIV era. She was a fashion icon at the time and wore alot of flowers in her wig. i used the flowers to create height as it would look like with the wig on. the flowers gave that influence of the past into the modern time. i chose pastel pink, yellow, cream, orange small roses. With bigger more defined faux roses in dotted around to break up the symmetry. The flowers were glued onto a wooden base with flower foam running through the middle to stick the flowers into. the only problems i faced was the headpiece being to heavy for the models head.