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Smokey/Glossy Eye

  • Writer: Courtney Clark
    Courtney Clark
  • Dec 1, 2015
  • 3 min read

This lesson we had to recreate the infamous Smokey eye, then add a gloss to it to make it a wet look smokey which is a current trend for 2015. After watching the demo done by Branka we were then partnered up and had to recreate the look we jiust watched.

Theres a lot of different variations of the smokey eye, the most classic one is usually black. Once you know the basics of a smokey eye, any colours can be used. In a smokey eye, blending is the key technique to consider.

Step By Step:

1. Cleanse, tone and moisturise the model.

2. Apply black track to the eyelid only and ensure an even application is applied. It is importnt to lift the brow so the skin is taught and the whole area is covered. When blending doing it softly and with precision, just to blend the initial line.

3. Then pack on a black eye shadow, i used carbon from MAC. Blend out.

4. Apply a taupe eye shadow from MAC under the brows and blend downwards, this is a transition colour to blend with.

5. Using a light brown blend above the crease.

6. Using a darker brown soften the black once more.

7. Apply black track into the water line using a small angled brush. Set it with black eye shadow.

8. Apply MAC concealer where needed. Get the model to look down and look in the mirror for any shadows that need concealing. I used the peach tone (D32) to conceal the grey under her eyes.

9. Match the models foundation using the Kryolan Ultra foundations and apply evenly to the skin.

10. Using a flat brush, apply the correct colour to the eyebrows and use a spooley to blend in.

11. Use a light concealer on the brow bone then set with a highlighter. I used MAC vanilla pigment and apply it under the brow and in the inner corner of the eye.

12. Contour the face under the cheek bone, temples and chin using a scultpting powder two shades lighter than skin tone.

13. Set the makeup using MAC translucent powder

14. On the upper waterline ask the model to look down and line it.

15. Under the eye, smudge the eyehshadow into the liner, right into both corners of the eye.

16. Apply a nude lipstrick and gloss.

Brankas Demo. (Above)

Products Used:

-MAC blacktrack gel eyeliner

- MAC carbon eyeshadow

-Derma colour concealer palette

-MAC vanilla pigment

-MAC concealer palette

-Kryolan Ultra foundations

-MAC translucent powder

-MAC shine mixing medium

- MAC contour palette (Self Made)

In evaluation, I really enjoyed creating this look. The base of the foundaiton went really well, however i think it looked like a lot of make up on the skin. I used the products in a versatile way like using the pigment for highlighter as well as an eyeshadow for the inner corne. I was pleased with the overall Smokey eye I created, but i need to practice my blending more so i can add more colour and deepen the look. I found it difficult to apply the eyeliner to the top of the waterliner as i was scared of injuring my model. However, all i need to do for next time is take my time and be cautious. Another problem i faced is the MAC blacktrack gel eyeliner is very drying so it has to be applied quickly. When i was trying to spread the liner for an even application, the product dried and I found it difficult to blend the edges outwards.

To change the look of a matte smokey eye to a glossy night time look, we used a clear lipgloss. As the look on catwalks is very dewy and glossy, we were given the task of changing this eye to suit nightime and the trend 'wet look'.

Step by Step

1. Mix a tiny amount of MAC cleat lipglass.

2. Apply the lipglass to the lid using a flat brush. Try not to sweep as this will ruin the look underneath.

In evaluation i think this look is really striking, i liked the change from matte to a high shine as it ties in with current trends of this year seen on the catwalks. Iinitially I was pleased with the look, but after about a minute the gloss started to make the eyeshadow crease a little bit and look unfinished and worn. If i was to recreate this look again i will use less of the lipglass and only lightly push it in. Otherwise i will use a high shimmer black eyeshadow to give the same wet look without it being sticky. Overall, I really enjoyed taking the original makeup and making it different.


 
 
 

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