Eyes: Focus on Eyeliner

Today we solely focused on the infamous 'winged eyeliner' technique. Holly conducted a demonstration in which she represented her techniques to create eyeliner suitable for catwalk and editorial.

In this demonstration Holly used Kristina as a model on one side of her face was a strong bold editorial look; the other a softended less dramatic catwalk look.

The trend that we focused on was; Red Seveties. The 70's trend was impacted heavily in the fashion industry. The classic red lip was reworked with deep, brick red colours, worn with natural skin, paired with 70's shades such as ocre, rust and caramel on the lids to bring it into the modern era.

My Recreation:

From watching the demonstration we were then told to recreate one of the looks; editorial or catwalk.

Step By Step - Eyeliner Flick

1. Prepped the skin as normal by using a cleaner, toners and a moisturiser. Then using a MAC primer, buffed primer into the face ready for base application.

2. Then used Rimmel foundation over the entire face using the same buffing brush. With a light concelaer i concealed over any blemishes. Also my model had slight rosacia on the skin so the cheeks needed a bit of extra coverage.

3. I the moved onto the brows. I then combed them through with a clean spoolie. Using Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow pomade in 'Dark Brown'. I followed the natural shape of the brow and sharpened up the tail, Using a brown eyeshadow i ligtly filled in the front of the brow to give a natural blended finish. To set the brows i used MAC clear brow gel.

4. Using a large eyeshadow fluffy blending brush i took the colour 'Rule' from my MAC eyeshadow palette and buffed it into the entire lid. Then using a softer matte brown and a smaller fluffy brush i swept this through the crease, and deepened it into the outer corner. Using a clean fluffy brush i blended these two colours together slightly.

5. Then i moved onto the eyeliner. Using MAC 'blacktrack' gel liner and an angled liner brush. I asked the model to close her eyes. I started from the centre of the eye, i slowly traced along the lash line to the outer corner of the eye. Then asked the model to look straight ahead i angled the brush against the lower lash line and made a line going towars the end of the brow about a 1cm long. Then connected the line from the top lash towards the corner of the line at an angle and filled it in black. I then asked the model to look at something on the right hand side so that i can follow the line close to the inner corner of the eye, without getting to close to the eyeball. Then repeated this on the other eye.

6. I finished this look with a few layers of mascara to open the eye and lift the lashes. For this i used MAC haute and naughty mascara with a clean disposable spoolie.

Evaluation of the 'Winged Eyeliner':

In evaluation i believe that my attempt at doing 'winged eyeliner' was very successful. This was my first ever attempt at eyeliner on someone other than myself. What i found most difficult about this technique was trying to get the flick pointing upwards rather than sloping down when the eye was open. I tried many ways of doing this and i found that doing the flick when the eye was open, was much more efficent and i knew the direction of the flick. Blacktrack glides on the eye very smooothly so it was easy to get it close to the lash line. To improve next time i will try and get the line smoother, and get the eyeliner closer tothe inside corner of the eye.

Products Used:

- MAC Black gel Eyeliner in 'Black Track'

- MAC eyeshadow in 'Rule'

- MAC eyeshadow in 'espresso'

- Fluffy Blending Brush

- Rimmel Foundation in Ivory

- MAC skin base primer

- MAC light concealer palette

- Anastasia Beverly Hills Dipbrow Pomade.