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Base: Dewy Skin

  • Writer: Courtney Clark
    Courtney Clark
  • Oct 5, 2015
  • 4 min read

Foundation Base: Applying foundation to give a Dewy finish.

The term 'Dewy' is Skin has a moist/shiny apperance, it has natural oils that reflect light and radiance. Creating a dewy finish on the skin makes the wearer look younger, fresh-faced and more natural.

Today we were given the pleasure of having Sian, a current freelance make up artist, give us a demonstration on how to apply foundation to give a 'Dewy' finish. She began by interpreting the models skin type, texture and also colour pigmentation. This was to enable Sian to choose the correct products to use. We all then were given the task of identifying the models undertone, which was a yellow/golden undertone. Before the application of the make up, she recommended giving a full cleanse, tone and moisturise of the models face before applying a primer suitable for Rosas skin type, texture and colour. In this instance a yellow undertoned 'Natural Radiance' primer by MAC was used. However, the primer was only used in the areas that were most needed, this included the T-zone, around the nostrils and down the chin. She then choose MAC face and body foundation that would match with the models natural skin pigmentation. For this step two different sheer to medium buildable coverage foundations were used. Sian chose a darker foundation to match with the natural contour of the face, then a lighter foundation to match with Rosas cheeks to bring the high points and middle of the face forward. This was all buffed into the skin using a duo fibre flat topped foundation brush. A blotting powder was then used in a shade closest to to the foundations just to mattify areas of the face that didnt need to be drawn out as much. Finally a liquid highlighter followed by a powdered highlighter was pressed into the tops of the cheekbones, around the temples in a 'C' shape and under the brow bone.

Following on from Sians demonstration we were then put into pairs to have a go at creating a Dewy skin base ourselves.

1.) Firstly, i prepped the face by soaking cotton pads in bioderma cleanser and massasaging the face to take any make up off. I then used a toner just to tighten and close the pores. I then used MAC prep and prime skin base on the skin to give an even textured base. I then applied MAC strobe cream into highest point of the cheeks in a 'C' shape around the eyebrows, along the nose, on the cupids bow and middle of the forehead. The strobe cream has light reflecting particals in it so when light hits the skin it gives a shimmery natural finish.

2.) I then matched Jo's skin using MAC face and body, in the shade NC15. This was a cool yellow undertoned foundation colour. I chose this shade to neutrilize Jo's pink undertone of her skin. I used a large flat topped duo fibre blending brush to buff into the skin. Face and body worked well to give a dewy almost wet look to the skin. It is weightless water based liquid foundation so is easy to buff into the skin with minimal effort. It is also extremley hydrating so the skin absorbs and retains the moisture giving a sheer radiant glow.

3.) After applying the foundation i used Kryolan Derma Camoflauge concealer palette. I chose D3 and D4 and mixed them together to get the corrct shade. I chose to used a concealer because i wanted to lightly conceal some areas of the face that were not covered by the Face and Body foundation. Using a small flat topped duo fibre concealer brush i mixed the two shades together. I then lightly blended the colour under Jo's eyes to remove any darker shades. I also applied it onto a few areas that had a blemishes just to give an even skin finish.

4.) I lightly contoured the hollows of the cheekbones, along the end corners of the forehead just to add some shape to the face. I used the darkest grey undertoned shade in the Sleek Face Form Contouring kit.

5.) Finally i highlighted again over the foundation base with MAC strobe cream using my ring finger i pattted it onto the highest point of the cheeks in a 'C' shape around the eyebrows, along the nose, on the cupids bow and middle of the forehead to bring the middle of the face forward. To give an extra 'Dewy' finish i applied MAC minerlize skin finish in shade 'Soft and Gentle' to give that extra shimmer and sun kissed finish. The highlight allowed the centre of the face to come forward whilst giving that glossy natural finish.

To finish the look i filled in the eyebrows slightly with a dark brown eyeshadow and angled eyebrow brush. I also swept over the eyelids with a soft taupe eyehadow and applied a few coats of Jo's own mascara to complete the face.

Products used:

- MAC face and body foundation in shade NC15 which was a cool yellow undertone to counteract the redness of Jo's skin.

- MAC prep and prime as a skin base primer.

- large Duo fibre flat topped brush to buff in the foundation.

- small duo fibre flat topped brush to buff in the highlighter.

- MAC mineralize skin finish in 'soft and gentle' to give that sunkissed look

- MAC strobe cream applied on the face for natural radiance.

- Kryolan derma colour palette for imperfections and full coverage.

- Sleek Face Form Contouring kit.

In evaluation, i believe i was able to create a 'Dewy' skin finish using minimal products whilst achieveing the same outcome. I w​as able to create a natural glossy finish to the skin. I found that using a flat topped blending brush was much easier to work with, especially using the liquid foundation because minimal product was needed yet it buffed beautifully into the skin without looking heavy. In future when creating a 'Dewy' skin finish i will concentrate more on the highest points of the face creating a strong defined highlight.


 
 
 

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